The charter itinerary lands: two gala evenings ashore, one owner dinner on the aft deck, and a beach club lunch. The principal asks you, on the way past, "what am I wearing on Thursday?" You should be able to answer, and you should have already checked that the components are aboard, clean and complete.
The codes
| Code | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| White tie (rare) | Black tailcoat, white piqué marcella waistcoat, wing collar, white bow tie, patent shoes | Full-length ball gown, long gloves optional |
| Black tie | Dinner jacket (midnight blue or black), satin/grosgrain facings, black bow tie (self-tied), no belt, cummerbund or low waistcoat, black patent or highly polished oxfords | Long or sophisticated short evening dress, cocktail dress |
| Cocktail / smart | Dark suit, tie optional | Cocktail dress, elegant separates |
| Yacht casual / smart casual | Chinos or tailored shorts, linen or polo shirt, loafers or deck shoes | Resort dress, elegant separates, sandals |
| Resort / beach | Swimwear plus cover-up ashore | Swimwear plus kaftan or cover-up ashore |
What the valet checks
- Completeness. A dinner jacket with no bow tie, no studs or one cufflink is a failed evening. Build a black-tie checklist: jacket, trousers, dress shirt, studs, cufflinks, bow tie, cummerbund or waistcoat, braces, black hosiery, shoes.
- Condition. Satin facings mark easily and cannot be sponged. Patent leather scuffs and creases; check before, not after.
- Timing. Confirm with the guest how far ahead the outfit is laid out, and where.
- Discretion in advice. If asked, you may state the convention. You never tell a guest they are dressed wrongly.
Laying out an evening outfit
- Hang the jacket and trousers on a shaped hanger, brushed and aired.
- Shirt on a separate hanger, studs and cufflinks set out in a tray in the order they go in.
- Bow tie untied and pressed flat (a self-tie is correct; never substitute a pre-tied one without being asked).
- Shoes polished, trees removed, placed with hosiery.
- Pocket square pressed and, if the guest folds their own, left flat.
Yacht dress reality
Onboard codes are set by the owner or charterer, not by you. "Yacht casual" on one boat is a linen shirt and no shoes; on another it is a jacket at dinner. Confirm the standard for the trip at the pre-charter brief and reflect it in the wardrobe you present.
Onboard Notes
- Sequins, bugle beads and paillettes distort or dull under direct heat: never press them and steam only from the reverse, at a distance, briefly.
- Salt air and humidity dull black wool fast. Brush dinner jackets after every wear and air them before restowing.
- Do not "helpfully" tie a bow tie unless asked. Do learn to tie one.
- Keep a spare set of studs, black hosiery and a shirt collar stay set in the valet kit. You will need them.