Charter guests in Saint-Tropez want rosé at lunch, something peppery with the lamb at dinner, and a crisp white for the sundowners. All three can come from France, and none of them from Bordeaux or Burgundy.
The Rhône, north and south
| Northern Rhône | Southern Rhône | |
|---|---|---|
| Red grape | Syrah alone | Blends led by Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre (GSM) |
| Style | Black pepper, violet, smoked meat, firm | Warmer, riper, herbal garrigue, higher alcohol |
| Appellations | Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, Saint-Joseph | Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Côtes du Rhône |
| Whites | Viognier (Condrieu), Marsanne, Roussanne | White blends; Tavel is a serious dry rosé |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape permits a long list of grape varieties in the blend and is typically full-bodied and high in alcohol - it flatters red meat and stands up to Mediterranean heat.
The Loire, west to east
- Muscadet (Melon Blanc) - light, bone-dry, saline; sur lie adds texture. The classic oyster wine.
- Anjou-Touraine - Chenin Blanc in every register: dry Savennières, off-dry and sweet Vouvray, and sparkling. Cabernet Franc reds in Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny: leafy, red-fruited, medium-bodied.
- Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé - Sauvignon Blanc: grassy, citrus, flinty, high acid.
Alsace
France's outlier: labels are varietal, and bottles come in tall flutes. Dominated by Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Styles run from dry to lusciously sweet, and the label does not always say which - Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (botrytis-affected) are the sweet designations. There are named Grand Cru vineyards.
Provence
The reference point for pale, dry rosé: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre, pressed quickly for minimal colour.
- Côtes de Provence - the bulk of the pale, delicate, red-fruit-and-citrus style guests expect.
- Bandol - Mourvèdre-led; structured rosé and serious, ageworthy red.
Colour is fashion, not quality: a pale rosé is not necessarily better than a darker one.
Onboard Notes
- Provence rosé is the highest-turnover wine in the Med. Stock deep, chill hard (7-9 C), and hold magnums for beach-club service - they look right and pour faster.
- Never leave rosé standing in the sun on a swim platform; it cooks within minutes and the delicacy is the whole point.
- Alsace flutes and Rhine bottles do not fit standard yacht fridge racks. Check your rack dimensions before ordering a case.