A guest hands you her own skincare bag and asks you to "use my stuff." Inside is a prescription retinoid, a 20% vitamin C serum and a glycolic peel she bought in Monaco. She has been in the sun since 0900. You are about to give her a facial. Say no to at least two of those, and know exactly why.
The Structure of a Facial
- Consult — skin type, condition, actives in use, medication, allergies, recent sun. Record it.
- Cleanse — twice: first to remove SPF, makeup and salt; second to actually cleanse the skin.
- Analyse — under good light. Decide the treatment now, based on the skin in front of you.
- Exfoliate — physical (gentle) or chemical (acid). Optional. Frequently the wrong choice onboard.
- Extract — only if appropriate, gently, never on inflamed or cystic lesions.
- Massage — the part they remember. Lymphatic and relaxing; avoid over-stimulating reactive skin.
- Mask — matched to the condition, not the type.
- Finish — serum, eye product, moisturiser, and SPF if they are going back out, which onboard they always are.
Layering
The principle is thinnest to thickest, water-based before oil-based. Serum before moisturiser; moisturiser before oil; SPF last. An occlusive over a hydrating serum seals the water in; the reverse just sits on top and does nothing.
Active Ingredients and Their Cautions
| Active | Does | Caution |
|---|---|---|
| AHAs (glycolic, lactic) | Surface exfoliation, brightening | Increases photosensitivity. Not on sunburnt or compromised skin. SPF mandatory |
| BHA (salicylic) | Oil-soluble; into the pore, good for congestion | Sensitising with overuse; salicylate allergy; caution in pregnancy |
| Retinoids | Cell turnover, ageing | Do not exfoliate, wax or peel retinoid-using skin. Prescription retinoids (e.g. isotretinoin, tretinoin): no wax, no acid, no aggressive work |
| Vitamin C | Antioxidant, brightening | Can sting; oxidises; layer with care |
| Niacinamide | Barrier, redness, oil | Well tolerated — a safe default |
| Hyaluronic acid | Water-binding | Needs a moisturiser sealed on top, or in dry air it can worsen dehydration |
| Enzymes | Gentle exfoliation | Good choice for sun-exposed guest skin |
The Tropical Rule
Guest skin onboard is sun-exposed, dehydrated, salt-and-chlorine stripped, and often already sensitised. The right facial is usually a calming, hydrating one, not an exfoliating one. Stack a glycolic peel onto skin that will be back on the sun deck in an hour and you have created a burn and a pigmentation problem, and the guest will remember whose hands were on her face.
Using the Guest's Own Products
You can, but you must read every label, and you are responsible for the combination. Decline anything prescription-strength, and never layer a peel onto a retinoid.
Onboard Notes
- Double cleanse. Thin to thick. SPF last.
- Actives increase sun sensitivity — and your guests live in the sun.
- Retinoid or isotretinoin user: no exfoliation, no wax, no peel.
- Onboard, hydrate and calm. Save the aggressive facial for a life ashore.
- Preparatory study only. Nothing here qualifies you to treat a guest. Beauty and nail work requires an accredited vocational qualification and professional insurance.