RYA-THEORY-L2.4

Meteorology for the coastal skipper

Weather decides whether and how a passage is made, so the coastal skipper must read the forecasts, understand the systems, and recognise the signs of change. This lesson covers meteorology at Coastal/Offshore theory level.

Systems and forecasts

In temperate latitudes the weather is dominated by depressions — areas of low pressure — that track roughly eastward bringing their warm and cold fronts, separated by ridges of higher pressure that bring settled spells. Wind blows nearly along the isobars, anticlockwise around a low in the northern hemisphere, and harder where the isobars are close together. The skipper builds the picture from the shipping forecast, the inshore-waters forecast, NAVTEX and coastal-station reports, and reads the synoptic chart to see what is coming rather than only what is here.

Feature Typical weather
Warm front approaching Lowering cloud, continuous rain, wind backing then veering
Cold front passing Squally showers, a sharp veer, rising pressure, then clearing
Tight isobars Strong winds
Ridge / high pressure Lighter winds, settled, risk of fog or a sea breeze
Reading the synoptic picture.

Local effects and sea state

On top of the large-scale systems, coastal effects matter: sea breezes that build on a sunny afternoon, land breezes at night, and the acceleration of wind around headlands. The sea state depends on wind strength, its duration and its fetch, and — critically — on the tide: wind against tide raises a short, steep and dangerous sea even in a moderate breeze. The skipper reads the Beaufort scale by the state of the sea and plans to avoid the worst combinations.

TIP — Watch the barometer's trend A steadily falling barometer warns of a deepening low and strengthening wind before the wind itself arrives. The trend matters more than the value; a rapid fall deserves an early rethink of the plan.

WARNING — Wind over tide is the coastal trap When wind blows against the tidal stream the sea becomes short, steep and dangerous out of all proportion to the wind strength. Know where and when it happens on your route and plan around it.

Practice questions

5 questions
recallcore

recall · core

Around a depression in the northern hemisphere, surface wind circulates: (a) Clockwise (b) Anticlockwise (c) Straight to the centre (d) Straight outward

recallcore

recall · core

Wind blowing against the tidal stream produces: (a) A calm sea (b) A short, steep and dangerous sea (c) A long swell only (d) No change

recallcore

recall · core

Surface wind is strongest where the isobars are: (a) Far apart (b) Close together (c) Straight (d) Absent

recallcore

recall · core

The passage of a cold front typically brings: (a) Continuous drizzle and a backing wind (b) Squally showers, a sharp veer and rising pressure (c) No change (d) Fog only

recallcore

recall · core

Sea state depends on wind strength, its duration and its: (a) Colour (b) Fetch (the distance over which it has blown) (c) Temperature only (d) Direction of the sun

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