Two shirts come into the laundry. Both are 100 percent cotton. One is a crisp poplin that irons like glass; the other is a heavy pique that comes out of the dryer looking like a crumpled napkin and shrinks a full size. Same fibre, different construction — and construction is the second half of the story.
Weave versus knit
| Structure | How it is made | Behaviour | Handling rule |
|---|---|---|---|
| Woven | Warp and weft interlaced at right angles | Stable, low stretch, holds a press, frays at cut edges | Can take normal agitation; press with the grain |
| Knitted | Loops of a continuous yarn | Stretches, recovers, curls at edges, distorts under weight | Support the weight; dry flat; never hang wet knitwear |
Weaves you will meet
| Weave | Character | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Plain (poplin, voile, chiffon, organza) | Tight, flat, matt | Irons crisply; sheer versions snag easily |
| Twill (denim, gabardine, chino) | Diagonal rib | Hides soil, durable, resists creasing; press on the diagonal-friendly grain |
| Satin/sateen | Long floats on the surface | Lustrous, snags very easily, water-spots; press on the reverse only |
| Jacquard/damask | Pattern woven in | Table linen; press face-down on the reverse to raise the pattern |
| Pile (velvet, terry, corduroy) | Raised loops or cut pile | Never press flat — crushes the pile; steam vertically or use a needle board |
Knits you will meet
- Jersey — single knit, curls at edges, stretches out of shape if hung wet.
- Rib and interlock — heavier, more stable, good recovery.
- Fine gauge cashmere/merino — extremely prone to felting if agitated hot.
- Pique — textured, shrinks noticeably on the first wash.
Blends: the rule of the weakest link
A blend behaves like its most vulnerable component, never its average.
| Blend | Governed by | Practical consequence |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton 95 / elastane 5 | Elastane | Wash warm, never hot; no tumble heat; no chlorine |
| Silk 70 / cotton 30 | Silk | Neutral pH, no enzymes, no chlorine bleach |
| Wool 80 / polyester 20 | Wool for chemistry, polyester for heat | Cool wash, low iron — the polyester will glaze before the wool scorches |
| Linen 55 / viscose 45 | Viscose | Very weak wet; never wring; dry flat |
Bias-cut garments (cut at 45 degrees to the grain) stretch and drop under their own wet weight. Dry them flat, and hang them only when bone dry.
Onboard Notes
- Sea state matters. In a swell, a drum on a high spin is putting extra mechanical stress on garments and on the machine mounts; drop the spin speed on delicates.
- Fine knits belong in a mesh bag, always, even when hand-washed and rinsed in the sink.
- Any garment with a raised pile or a sequinned surface must be turned inside out before it goes anywhere near a drum.
- Log the construction as well as the fibre on your garment card; the next stew will thank you.